Borneo Travel Log

July 2000

Day 1—July 4

We have been flying all day to travel to Borneo in East Malaysia. While on the flight we were able to watch movies, and I slept so the whole trip didn’t feel quite as long as I thought it would.

There were several things I noticed while on the flight. I observed the female flight attendants all wore long skirts as uniforms. They sometimes looked as if they had trouble moving around in them. Before we were given a snack or a meal we were given a hot towel with which to wash our hands. When we landed no one waited for the plane to stop or the seatbelt sign to disappear before leaping to their feet.

I also noted that there was a lot of variety in what women wore both on the plane and at our layover in Dubai. Some wore decorative scarves about their heads and makeup on their faces. Others were dressed completely in black with barely their eyes peeking through the veil. One woman wore what appeared to be a metal plate across her eyebrows, down her nose and across her mouth. A couple of others from our group saw her and we all agreed that the sight was disconcerting. Was she being punished or was this normal attire? In contrast to the women, most of the men we saw were dressed contemporarily.

Day 2—July 5

We arrived in Kuching. The flight did not feel as long as I had anticipated. Kuching is rather quite like any other big city at first glance, tall buildings, KFC and a Holiday Inn in which we are staying. Some of us were hungry and grabbed a bite next to our hotel. I felt a little uneasy about the ice in my coke and the few mosquitoes that I saw, but that passed and suddenly I began to realize that I was actually in Asia, laughing, getting to know new people and anticipating to next two weeks.

Day 3—July 6

This was our first full day in Sarawak, and we spent it in Kuching trying to recuperate from the flight. I had no problem switching to Malaysian time, but the food from the plane didn’t agree with me and my stomach was upset.

My roommate Nancy and I walked around the local shops for a time and then took a nap. While out walking we stopped at a restaurant called the Life Café to have lunch. We had some very good vegetable egg rolls, and the breeze in the café was a welcome break from walking in the heat.

We met an elderly couple from Guam while at the café and ended up talking to them for a long time. They had lived an adventurous life working and traveling all over Asia. They told us that Borneo was by far their favorite place to visit, and they always had a positive experience. I found it interesting that the gentleman and I had even both lived in Lamar, Missouri once (birthplace of Harry Truman). Sitting with a man from Guam and talking about the same tiny midwestern town was kind of surreal.

Since I had never met anyone from Guam, but have long been interested in it, I found our conversation very enjoyable.

Afterwards, we walked to some local shops and I spoke to a few other people along the way. Everyone seemed so friendly and down-to-earth. I never felt uneasy walking around or looking people in the eye—something I cannot say about New Britain, Connecticut.

Day 4—July 7

We took a boat to Bako State Park. The ride was quite calming, and once we arrived we started our jungle trek. When we started off we saw a monitor lizard right away, and then some crabs. I had anticipated seeing a lot of colorful flowers and birds, but that was not the case. I suppose I had anticipated that due to the fact that often one sees flowers and birds in connection with rain forests. We did later see macaque monkeys and pitcher plants, both interesting.

I thought it was difficult to breathe at first, but I adjusted to the dry humidity in a short time. The trek ended up taking six hours, four hours longer than anticipated. Our guides took us much further than we should have gone in such extreme heat and humidity. Once getting back to the ranger station I starting shaving uncontrollably, and then got a sudden, intense headache. I had a very long, scary ordeal; but by the next morning I was up and about again.

In the middle of the night I saw a bearded pig on the way to the bathroom. At first startled, I then found the whole thing kind of amusing. Then I was awaken by voices outside and joined several people from our group who were on the porch, the bearded pig still in wait a few feet away.

In the morning Nancy and I walked out to the where the tide was just starting to come in. The South China Sea was in front of us, something I never thought I would see.

Day 5—July 8

We left Bako and stopped at a seafood restaurant in the local kampong. I thought it was interesting that the children were working with the adults. One was chopping coconuts was a small machete. All the children seemed very responsible and quite mature in many ways. On the way to Damai beach resort, we saw some ritzy areas. A home of one politician in particular was decked out with a dome and an amazing rot iron fence that surrounded the whole estate. The next house we saw was virtually a shack.

Even before arriving at the kampong, I was feeling very ill again from the heat. I actually thought I might pass out. Upon arriving at the hotel, I was able to go to the room. This was a very difficult day because I was frustrated with my health. I felt I was dragging the group down. I also regretted getting ill so early in the trip because I knew that I would struggle the rest of the time I was here. In the evening I ended up going to the doctor. Dr. Bowman accompanied me. I was impressed with the level of care I received. The doctor told me I definitely had heat exhaustion and maybe heat stroke. He told me to stay out of the sun. That was kind of funny since I was in a tropical region.

Day 6—July 9

We went to the Cultural Village. Nancy and I visited the various longhouses. I tried out the Penan blowgun, and hit the lizard target once. I was most intrigued by the Penan. I have always been interested in nomadic peoples, and the Penan had a certain flair that appealed to me. I was laughing the whole time I visited their site. At the dance performance we attended later, I again saw their comedic ability to entertain.

Other houses we visited were much more subdued. In the Orang-utu house, Nancy wanted to try out the swing but was told that was only for the “young warriors.” Nancy could not have been more offended at that. But we had to respect their culture, so I convinced her it would not be a good idea to do what she thought about doing.

Several men from Western Malaysia kept speaking to us. One asked me if I wanted to go with him; where, I am not sure. I think we encountered the Asian stereotype of Western women we had read about.

As an aside, I have been noticing the remote system of electricity. It was a little hard to adjust to at first, but after the initial strangeness I found that I liked it very much. The bedside could control the lights. When leaving the room one motion turned all the lights off at once. It was ingenious and convenient and I have not run into the same thing in any US hotel.

Day 7—July 10

We arrived back in Kuching. It was difficult for some of our group to leave Damai beach. I was a bit indifferent, although Nancy did not want to leave. I thought that the man-made beach, while pretty, was kind of hokey. The only thing I really missed was the comfortable bed. (I did not realize this at the time, but of all the places we stayed I got the best rest in that bed.)

We first visited UNIMAS. As we were entering I saw a bumper sticker that read, “Courtesy: our way of life.” That was quite a change from the uncourteous plethora of American bumper stickers. We met the dean, faculty and some students in a rather formal question and answer session around a round table. We were given gifts, and we inappropriately opened them at once. We were given a tour, and everyone we met was more than accommodating.

Day 8—July 11

Today was the first day of the Borneo conference. I found the session I attended a little hard to follow. Other aspects of the day were more fascinating. In the lobby I was able to buy some crafts from some Penan women. A group that is working to preserve Penan culture had brought them to the conference. I found it interesting that the women showed very little interest in what was going on around them. I had heard that there had been a two-day walk to bring them to the conference and that prior they had little contact with the city. If this was true they seemed very unimpressed by what surrounded them.

Also after the session, there was a lunch. I realized how amazing it was that I was sitting in Malaysia at a table with a Japanese man, German woman, a French woman and a native Malaysian man. Even at my alma mater that has a high foreign student body, this was more diversity that I have been accustomed to encountering. I found it to be a heartening experience.

It reminded me of something that occurred at the cultural village. A Malaysian man approached me asking if I was from the US. When I responded that I was he asked me an unusual question. He only wanted to know, from an American, why it was that in the US there is so much racial strife and tension. I said something about crowding and busy cities, but I know the problem is much more complicated. The way he asked the question though made me want to find a simple answer for him. He said that it is not that way here. And then something about working together I think. I had some difficulty understanding his speech. Perhaps he had the simple answer. Asian values promote working together and American values promote competition. Maybe the individual selfishness makes us more individually (and collectively) violent.

Day 9—July 12

I stayed in Kuching while the group went to the Orang-utan Rehabilitation Center and the Remun Kampong. Nancy’s ear infection was worse, so she also stayed and we went to the medical center. The doctor told her it was common for foreigners to get ear infections from the heat.

After getting back we walked around Kuching, did some laundry and took a nap. The day went by very quickly. (Incidentally, when I slept I remember dreaming, and all the people I saw were Asian. I thought that was interesting. I wonder if that happened to anyone else?)

While walking I began to notice that each street had a certain order to it. All the touristy shops were next to the hotel. A few streets down stocked household items and fabric stores. Where ever we went the shopkeepers were very attentive. I wondered if that was to deter thievery or if it was simply to be helpful. Perhaps it was a little of both.

Day 10—July 13

Nancy needed to buy some gifts, so this was our longest shopping day. We were walking from morning until we were to meet the group for the Sarawak Museum visit. In the museum I finally got to see the birds I was hoping to see. It didn’t matter to me that they were stuffed; I was still able to see the kinds, sizes, number and their color. I was impressed with how many varieties there were, and I wondered how many of those birds are now endangered or extinct.

That night Nancy convinced a few of us to go to a local bar she had been frequenting. It was a lot of fun. We played some pool, did some dancing, and got a little more rowdy than I can write about here. It is definitely a night I will long not forget.

Day 11—July 14

In the morning we visited the Pepper Marketing Board and toured the pepper factory. Pepper is not something I associated with Malaysia, so the tour was interesting. I hadn’t realized how much preparation was needed in the processing of pepper.

Later in the day we visited a group home and a psychiatric hospital. The psychiatric hospital was definitely different from the US system. There were two wings, one for those who were affluent. In the US you would not find that in the same facility. Patients’ diagnoses were prominently displayed on a big board, so the concept of mental illness must be much different than the US. Without the need for patient confidentiality, I wonder if the concept of mental illness is more like a medical problem and less like a stigma?

I liked the fact that the patients had contact with the outside. The design of the building made the center of the facility enclosed by grass. This seemed as if it would be helpful to the patients’ state-of-mind. I know in the facility I worked in the biggest complaint from the patients was the inability to see and have contact with outside air, light and space. It always seemed strange to me that they were supposed to get better in an environment that would have made the most centered person feel depressed.

Day 12—July 15

To reach our next destination, Pelagus Rapids, there was some travel involved. We took a plane, an express boat and a motor boat and then hopped over rocks to finally be welcomed by the resort staff. When they were shaking our hands, I couldn’t help but think of Fantasy Island for some reason.

We were all exhausted, and the night walk was postponed until the following day. I ended up deciding not to go to the longhouse. I couldn’t believe I came all the way to Borneo and was going to miss not just the Remun Kampong, but this as well.

After dinner, Nancy and I fell asleep listening to the cicadas.

Day 13—July 16

I couldn’t believe that this was our last day in Malaysia. It had gone so quickly. I was still regretting missing the longhouse, but I really couldn’t make any other choice, considering the situation. I decided to make the most of my day. I went for a walk in the morning; did some reading. I actually caught up on my journal writing, so I had a sense of accomplishment from my day.

In the evening we went for a night walk which was fascinating. Before we left, Bob spotted a huge beetle. That bug took our attention for quite some time. It really was more like a small animal that a bug, especially the way it behaved and responded to us. The jungle itself was like a completely different place than in the day. At one point we turned our flashlights off and were still. The sounds seemed louder and it was impossible to see a hand in front of a face. I tried. Later, I was able to spot the largest stick bug we saw, and although it was luck I was very ecstatic about that.

Day 14—July 17

We left on our journey right after breakfast. This was the longest trip I have ever had in my entire life. From the time we got on the first boat at Pelagus Falls until the time we stepped out of the van at CCSU, forty hours had passed. I have never wanted to stop moving so much. But the important thing is that it was uneventful, and we arrived safely. I couldn’t help but wonder what was in store for the rest still in Borneo, and what they were doing.

One interesting thing that occurred while we were at Dubai is that a couple walked by Nancy and me. The man was dressed in western clothes, jeans and a polo shirt. The woman was in full Muslim garb and the only thing we could see were her eyes. First she took a picture of him, and then he took a picture of her. This exchange just solidified to me how different my world is from that woman’s world. It seemed almost comical because there was nothing to distinguish her from any other woman dressed identically—and completely—in black. I felt very much like an outsider, like someone walking in on a conversation and having missed the most important part.

After arriving back in Connecticut, I felt like the trip had not gone quite like I had hoped, but everything turned out for the best. I learned a lot about myself and that is important; that is possibly even most important according to John Muir because “all other travel is mere dust and hotels and baggage and chatter.”